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Formulating 101
@lisalovesbalayage teaches often about formulating for the
SOLUTION not the PROBLEM ⚠️
How this translates to me is:
CREATING THE DESIRED SHADE
vs
SIMPLY “CANCELLING OUT” EXPOSED UNDERLYING PIGMENT
.
We ALL expose YELLOW once lifted to a level 9, and often at this point when trying to figure out what we should tone with, our first thought is to go DIRECTLY across the color wheel so that we can get RID ❌ of all that yellow⚠️. ‼️However ‼️ if your client wants MORE than to simply NOT be yellow, they want an INTENTIONAL tone. ⚜️
.
Here’s an example:
Client asks to be a “bright beige blonde”
You lift to a level 9 (yellow) and then apply a level 9 violet color in order to neutralize the exposed underlying pigment, yellow—
but wait ☝ that didn’t ♀️ make a bright beige blonde.....That made NEUTRAL. ...In this case, you formulated for the yellow PROBLEM that you saw right away when you washed off that bleach.
⬇️
What you should have done in this scenario
In order to formulate for the SOLUTION (create a desired shade):
you must add something ELSE too.
.
In this case, we used violet to NEUTRALize the yellow, but ALSO added GOLD⚱️, in order to give the end result some DIRECTION ↔️; to CREATE the desired tone. .
And I know what you might be thinking: “Doesn’t gold and violet in the same bowl just cancel each other out” ⁉️
Ask yourself this to answer your own question: is GOLD the same as YELLOW? And which does VIOLET neutralize
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