On Jonathan Gold's birthday today, we revisit our tribute episode, hearing from friends, colleagues, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA.
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Last year, LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison made a bold statement, calling California the most influential force in American dining now, even surpassing New York. "California's messaging dissolves rigidity. It whittles away at the cultural notion of them versus us. It urges chefs to find their own somewhereness in the foods they serve," he wrote for Eater.
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"When we think about what we care most about [in food writing] today, about not just what we're eating on the plate, but why we're eating it and how we're eating it and with whom we're eating it—that comes straight from Jonathan's work. The man who taught us all, every week, about broadening our own sense of community," Addison reflects.
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At a time when restaurant criticism was fixated on fine dining, Jonathan Gold championed taco trucks, Ethiopian food, and San Gabriel Valley noodle shops. His insistence on taking these cuisines seriously built bridges to understanding and respecting other cultures, saved restaurants, transformed lives, and brought a renewed sense of pride to those communities.
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Sharing Jonathan's own advice on finding good food out in the world: "If you're in a restaurant that has mostly dishes that you've never heard of, don't order the dish that you have heard of. It's not there for the right reasons." Happy birthday, Jonathan.
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Hear the rest of the episode that was nominated for a 2019 James Beard Broadcast Media Award for Radio wherever you get your podcasts. | : Nick Liao / KCRW
Today marks the one-year anniversary of Jonathan Gold's passing. His writing interpreted LA’s food culture to the world, using his singular voice to plant its basis always in humanity. Amy Scattergood was one of the Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic's longtime collaborators at the LA Times, and joined us to assess his legacy and impact a year later.
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“Jonathan didn’t chase trends. He always felt like he had a bigger mandate that was about people,” says Scattergood. “You could always tell if there was a restaurant that was too trendy or if he really wasn’t interested. He’d just go, ‘Yeah, maybe, but instead I’m gonna do this. And you’re gonna like it.’ And we did because it had a way to get us all to the table. And not because some PR agency told us to go some place, but because the food was good. He just wouldn’t do it unless he felt it was right."
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“Carrying the torch means ignoring the PR stuff and going back to the tables that are interesting and worthwhile and say something about the people who are cooking the food, or the people who are eating the food, or about our city or someone else’s city and just providing a voice for those people—people who often don’t have voices. He did that."
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“If I can’t hear him talk now, then I want to read him. I loved reading what he wrote. That’s what I miss. What we can do now is we can reread him. The beautiful thing about being a writer is that it’s there. We can go pull it up.”
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At Grand Central Market, there is a plaque hanging in honor of his legacy as a writer and lifelong Angeleno. Beneath his silhouette, it reads: Jonathan Gold, Son of Los Angeles.
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Hear the rest of the tribute in this week’s show wherever you get your podcasts. | : Duston Todd / Nick Liao
A year after Jonathan Gold’s passing, we stop by @GrandCentralMarketLA to hear from his admirers:
“He made it okay to enjoy your culture’s food. Growing up eating Chinese food in elementary school and getting picked on….now all those people are eating my people’s food and enjoying it. I really embrace that.” —Nicole Lu Kerzhner, a Grand Central Market visitor
“One year later, what I miss most is just Jonathan’s voice. There’s no one else who knew LA food the way he did, or make us rethink our own relationship to LA food. He helped reposition our whole understanding of what LA is and what the unique food coming out of LA is.”
— Kevin West, Grand Central Market advisor
“I just miss his nurturing approach to food, and what people should take away from food itself. It’s a lot more about what you’re eating. It’s about what you’re putting into your heart and soul, and he was able to capture that in how he wrote about food. It wasn’t just about food. It was about life.” —Reed Herrick, Chef/Owner of DTLA Cheese
Hear the full @kcrwgoodfood tribute episode at the link in bio.
Share your memories of Jonathan Gold below.
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another hair selfie because I still can’t get over how amazing my hair looks. @jessgoldhairmakeup is seriously the best, and she was sweet enough to give me a code to share with you! When you call and book your appointment in August, mention my name and save 20% off for NEW CLIENTS *excludes extensions
Jonathan Gold was the King of L.A.
He loved and championed our City of Angels long before it was cool and in his own unique way which ended up really shaping the landscape of what the Los Angeles food scene is today.
He was always supportive and encouraging, but beyond the Pulitzer Prize and the Goldbot what saddens me the most, more than the loss to the food community, is the loss to his family. My condolences to Laurie, Isabel and Leon—it was easy to see that you were the center of everything to J. Gold. #jgold #mrgold #jonathangold #rip #losangelestimes #losangeles #oneofakind