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Turret lathe being used at Clark Equipment Co., Battle Creek, MI. Does anyone recognize the make or model? Warner & Swasey No. 3A? 1950s⠀
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I'm sure a lot of your machines were moved with Clark forklifts. Maybe some made on this lathe by this guy. ⠀
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#MetalTurningTuesdays ⚙️
Cutting threads with 15" "O" Series South Bend Lathe with "Silent" chain motor drive system. Swipe to see another pic of the silent drive. circa 1935
I like that little chip pan on the floor.
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Holding Small Screws in Lathe ⚙️
This holder shown can hold very small screws even with only a couple threads. Thread one end of a shank, and turn down a small diameter length that will press against the screw inside. A knurled sleeve is then made to fit the threaded end, and is drilled and tapped, at its center, to fit a standard hexagon-head bolt. You can drill and tap several of these bolts to fit various sizes of screws. To use screw in hex bolt with screw to be machined into the knurled sleeve. Tighten the knurled sleeve until the small diameter nose of the shank butts up against the screw, and locks it firmly for machining. #GrungyToolTipThursdays ⚙️
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Machinist on duck boards working on turret lathes at Clark Equipment Co., Battle Creek, Michigan 1920s⠀
How many of you are still using turret lathes? ⠀
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I've bought this lathe 4 years ago, and so far this is a nice small lathe. Very useful. I've upgraded with a solid tool post couple weeks ago and it improve the rigidity quite well. The next big project for this lathe is to add a 2 axis DRO.
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This is a great way to keep those legos organized.
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Supporting Long, Thin Bars on Lathe ⚙️
Centering does not work well in cases like these, because the diameter of the material isn't large enough. Here a piece of 5/8-in. cold rolled steel rod is bent over as shown. One end is fitting into a holder that is turned on the shank to fit the tailstock. When these two parts are fitted together, a hole is drilled through both. Three other holes in line with this one are similarly drilled, then all are reamed for a taper pin. The pin is driven tightly into the holder and the first hole in the rod, and a hole for one size of the bar is then drilled and reamed through the opposite end of the support, using a drill held in the lathe chuck. The taper pin is then driven into the next hole in the support, and another size of hole is drilled and reamed, and so on. #GrungyToolTipThursdays ⚙️ Follow @grungymachinist for more tips and tricks every Thursday.
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