historyofdress fashionhistory costumehistory dresshistory historyoffashion historyofcostume fashionstudies costumemuseum dressmuseum fashionexhibition fashionmuseum fashionconservation fashioncuration 19thcenturyfashion costumedesign textileresearchcentre couture fashiondesigner hautecouture leiden 1900sfashion 19thcentury 18thcenturyfashion edwardianfashion whatwomenwore womenswear 18thcentury fashiondesign victorianfashion historyofcostume
In this final, haunting painting, The Wedding Dress (1911), a widow is again clothed in mourning attire, whilst grieving next to her wedding dress. The artist, Fred Elwell depicts the texture and textile of her satin gown through the use of light and shade in this private scene, and in similarity to the previous painting, the wedding dress symbolises intense loss. An upsetting irony is that the sitter for this painting, Violet Press, lost her own husband in the First World War, after a very short marriage.
@hull_museums has two posts dedicated to the history, analysis and symbolism of this painting on their website. You can read them here: http://museumcollections.hullcc.gov.uk/collections/storydetail.php?irn=638&master=451 #fashionexhibition #fashionhistory #fashionstudies #fashionmuseum #dressmuseum #dresshistory #costumemuseum #costumehistory #historyoffashion #historyofdress #historyofcostume #mourningdress #mourning #victorianmourning #artanffashion #fashionhistorian
Today’s Inspiration: Marcel Rochas
In 1943, nearly 4 years before Dior would debut his New Look, Marcel Rochas created a strapless, combination bra-girdle called a guepiere. Outside of France, that name didn’t do well, and it was instead referred to as a ‘waspie’, a support garment that drew comparisons for shaping waists as small as a wasps. The idea for this new design came from garments he had created for his favorite movie star/client, Mae West. •
Born in Paris in 1902, Rochas opened his fashion house in 1931. He spent the first few (four?) years of his career under the mentorship of Paul Poiret. In 1935 Cecil Beaton illustrated 2 Rochas gowns for Vogue. •
Rochas became known for anticipating trends, showing longer hemlines long before anyone else (1941), and using marketing and licensing to expand the footprint of his brand (Rochas is FAMOUS for perfumes, even today). He designed elegant pants for women in the early 1950’s and was one of three first designers to put pockets into women’s clothes. •
After the Second World War, Rochas spent time designing in Hollywood for world famous actresses. •
Over the course of his career, Rochas worked with stars like Loretta Young, Jean Harlow, and Joan Crawford. The designer died tragically early, in 1955. His wife, Helen tried to carry on the line, but it didn’t last. The company was purchased by Peter O’Brien in 1989, and Olivier Theyskens became creative director in 2002. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• #MarcelRochas #ROCHAS #WaspWaist #Waspie #MaeWest #ButDoesItHavePockets #HauteHistory #CoutureHistory #FrenchFashion #ParisianStyle #WearableArt #HauteCouture #Couture #FashionDesign #FashionDesigner #FashionHistory #Bespoke #HistoricCostume #CostumeDesign #CostumeHistory #HistoryOfDress #WomensWear #WhatWomenWore #TodaysInspiration
This striking raspberry coloured dress, trimmed with tiny white beads, offers a glimpse of the transformation in women’s silhouettes which took place in the 1860s. In previous decades women had favoured a wide bell-shaped skirt worn with a crinoline. This still remains here but it has been joined by an added emphasis on the back of the skirt, which in time would morph into the high bustles and draped fabrics that characterised the 1870s and beyond. Here we can see the brief transitional period between these two very different styles.
Thanks to @albanyinstitute for the images.
#fashionhistory #historyoffashion #costumehistory #historyofdress #dress history #19thcentury #19thcenturyhistory #19thcenturyfashion #19thcenturydress #19thcenturycostume #costumesociety #costumesocietyuk
#Repost @missfashionhistory
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This Russian court dress comes from around 1900 and was worn by the last Tsar Nicholas II's sister, the Grand Duchess Xenia Alexandrovna #russianfashion #russiandress #royaldress #imperialfashion #fashionhistory #courtdress #historyoffashion #dresshistory #historyofdress #historicalfashion #historicaldress #instafollow #followmee
Today’s Inspiration: Madeleine Laferrière
Madeleine Laferrière was one of the first female haute couture designers to achieve world wide fame and financial success. In 1971 Sir Cecil Beaton was curating his collection, cataloging the history of fashion at the V&A museum when he found a treasure, a gift from a Lady Lloyd, an evening gown that had been worn by (then) Princess Alexandra of Denmark, designed by Maison Laferrière.
Madeleine Laferrière’s eponymous house opened in 1869 (though some sources say it was closer to 1847) and it had a prestigious address on rue Taitbout in Paris. By the end of the 19th century, Maison Laferrière was a respected, highly acclaimed atelier, with as much brand recognition/respect as as her contemporaries Paquin, Beer, and Doucet.
Her clients included some of the wealthiest women in the world; Queen Maud of Norway and Empress Eugenie of France were dedicated clients, in addition to Alexandra. Her work was a major feature of the World’s Fair in 1900, alongside Callot Soeurs and the House of Paquin.
Laferrière died in 1912, and as was typical for design houses before the First World War, the label was dissolved after the death of its designer. Today, Laferrière’s incredible evening gowns can be seen in some of the most enviable collections and museums on earth. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• #MadeleineLaferrière #MaisonLaferrière #HauteHistory #CoutureHistory #FrenchFashion #ParisianStyle #WomenDesigners #LadiesWhoLaunch #WearableArt #HauteCouture #Couture #FashionDesign #FashionDesigner #FashionHistory #Bespoke #HistoricCostume #CostumeDesign #CostumeHistory #HistoryOfDress #WomensWear #WhatWomenWore #TodaysInspiration
1917-20 Lucile afternoon dress, @hillwoodmuseum. Interior lawn bodice and skirt, with circular collar, with a spotted tulle skirt gathered in separate tiers. Ribbons on the skirt are used to close the garment’s skirt. #fashionexhibition #fashionhistory #fashionstudies #fashionmuseum #dressmuseum #dresshistory #costumemuseum #costumehistory #historyoffashion #historyofdress #historyofcostume #edwardianfashion #1900sfashion #lucile
Today’s Inspiration: Charles LeMaire
Between 1943-1960 Charles LeMaire was in charge of the entire wardrobe department of 20th Century Fox. Which is kind of an insane thing to consider.
LeMaire began his work as a vaudeville actor. Around 1921, when he couldn’t find work on stage, he began to design costumes for stage productions, eventually ones on Broadway. He picked up some fame while working on the Ziegfeld Follies. He even designed costumes for Ringling Bros/Bar. & Bailey’s Circus in the early 1920’s. Around 1925 he began to work on films.
LeMaire was nominated for some crazy number of Oscars for his costume design work. About 16 times, and he won three of them. He was also a big part of the movement to get the Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences to even have a costume award, that didn’t even start until 1948. LeMaire was the architect of that change. A sample of the movies he costumed: All About Eve, Gentleman Prefer Blondes, Peyton Place, The Virgin Queen and The Girl Can’t Help it. He worked with some of the biggest names in Hollywood costuming, including Edith Head, Mary Wills, and William Travilla.
LeMarie died of heart failure in 1985. Before his death, he had been campaigning to get Hollywood Walk of Fame stars to include the names of costume designers. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• #CharlesLeMaire #TwentithCenturyFox #Oscar #AcademyAward #FilmHistory #Broadway #ClassicHollywood #MovieHistory #Hollywood #FilmCostume #GoldenAge #WearableArt #HauteCouture #Couture #FashionDesign #FashionDesigner #FashionHistory #HistoricCostume #CostumeDesign #CostumeHistory #HistoryOfDress #WomensWear #WhatWomenWore #TodaysInspiration
Today’s Inspiration: Helen Rose
The Mistress Of Chiffon, Helen Rose, designed the costumes for more than 200 Hollywood films between 1947-1966. Born in 1908, Rose studied at the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts (Art Institute today) and designed vaudeville costumes before transitioning into film.
After bouncing around with a few studios, Rose was hired at MGM in 1943, where she worked under Adrian until his retirement. When Irene retired a few years later, Rose became the chief costume designer for the entire studio. She’s one of only a handful of female designers who did this.
Her work led to life long business and personal relationships with actresses like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor; she designed wedding gowns for both ladies (it was Taylor’s marriage to Hilton). She won 2 Oscars for her costumes (1952 & 1955) and her films included ‘Cat on a Hot Tin Roof”, 1945’s ‘Ziegfeld Follies’, ‘Annie Get Your Gun’, and “The Forbidden Planet’. Rose retired from film in 1966 and opened a design house. She wrote about her adventures working with movie stars and designed beautiful gowns for private clients until her death in 1985. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• #HelenRose #MistressOfChiffon #GraceKelly #WeddingDressDesigner #MGM #ClassicHollywood #MovieHistory #WomenWhoDesign #Hollywood #FilmCostume #GoldenAge #WearableArt #HauteCouture #Couture #FashionDesign #FashionDesigner #FashionHistory #HistoricCostume #CostumeDesign #CostumeHistory #HistoryOfDress #WomensWear #WhatWomenWore #TodaysInspiration
Have you? Courage? Front and back details of this @V_and_A court suit, 1795-1797. It is French, silk thread embroidered, and would have been made for the export market. It is highly decorated and embellished, worn by the highest levels of society attending court. #fashionexhibition #fashionstudies #fashionhistory #fashionmuseum #dressmuseum #dresshistory #costumemuseum #costumehistory #historyoffashion #historyofdress #historyofcostume #18thcentury